Helpful ReplyHot!December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London

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ScreamingChicken
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 08:29:02 (permalink)
Davidsanders
It was an interesting pizza, with good flavor. I liked the olives. The very thin crust and style of tomato sauce they used was a bit odd for me, but I still liked it.


I like olives on pizza.  What was it about the sauce that you found different?  More savory or sweet than what you're accustomed to?
 
Davidsanders

 

Less pastry, more meat!!
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Davidsanders
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 08:56:05 (permalink)
ScreamingChicken
Davidsanders
It was an interesting pizza, with good flavor. I liked the olives. The very thin crust and style of tomato sauce they used was a bit odd for me, but I still liked it.


I like olives on pizza.  What was it about the sauce that you found different?  More savory or sweet than what you're accustomed to?


 
Davidsanders

 

Less pastry, more meat!!


I think I remember that the sauce was almost a bit grainy, but I’m not sure if that’s an accurate description. I’ve never been great with descriptions.

I would have thought you would say, “less meat, more fried chicken.”
#32
MetroplexJim
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 09:24:00 (permalink)
SC, I like olives on pizza, too.  BUT, Milan is not the place to eat pizza for anything more than a street snack.  Ordering pizza for a 'main' in Milan is like ordering Texas BBQ in Portland, Maine.  In Italy, decent pizza starts in Rome and gets better the further south one goes.
 
This is what I'd order for a lunch in Milano:
 
 
Milan (Italy's largest city, BTW) is the 'fine dining' capital of Italy:  excellent beef and veal, pasta with complex white sauces, etc.
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MetroplexJim
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 09:37:16 (permalink)
Now this is 'more like it' for a hotel breakfast in Paris.
 


 
What hotel?
#34
Davidsanders
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 09:47:57 (permalink)
MetroplexJim
Now this is 'more like it' for a hotel breakfast in Paris.
 


 
What hotel?


Hotel du Collectionneur. It used to be the Hilton Arc de Triomphe.
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 09:57:01 (permalink)
ScreamingChicken
 
Less pastry, more meat!!




 
Careful for what you wish!  The most common cut of beef in Parisian cafes and bistros is "entrecote", which is French for shoe leather.  They raise their beef for flavor, not texture.  Always discuss this issue with the waiter before ordering any beef dish other than filet.
 
Paris is the pastry capital of the world universe.  Those little works of art even taste better than they look; keep 'em coming!
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 11:35:11 (permalink)
Wednesday, December 12th 
 
 
This morning started again with the hotel breakfast. The best part of this breakfast for me turned out to be the cheeses and the baguettes available for slicing. 

 
The eggs were supposed to have been scrambled, with some tomatoes and mushrooms, but there was a failure to communicate.

 
The fruit was very good.

 
The morning began with a trip back to Des Gateaux et du Pain. 

 
I got there a few minutes before they opened and was watching the woman in the store put the pastries out into the display cases. I took a few pictures from outside, and when they opened, I took a few more pictures inside. 

 

 

 
The woman stocking the cases came out from the back and saw me with my phone taking pictures and informed me that photos were not allowed. I asked if after I paid for my items would I be able to take pictures of what I had purchased in the store, and was emphatically told no. I had picked out a croissant and a pastry, and went to pay, but my bill wasn’t high enough for a credit card, so I added an apple turnover, which I had been considering. 
 
Des Gateaux et du Pain
89, Rue du Bac
http://www.desgateauxetdupain.com
 
 
I left the store, walked around the corner and started on the croissant, which was very good, but not as good as the one from Hugo and Victor. 

 

 
My next stop was going to be a return to Sebastien Gaudard, so I started walking and wound up in the Tuileries Gardens. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
It seemed like a good time and location to try the apple turnover. As soon as I took it out of the bag to take a picture, the birds in the area that I assumed were minding their own business started making their way over to me. You can see the birds coming closer in the photo. When I took the first bite, they made it very clear that if I was going to eat something in their garden, I was going to have to share. By that point there were flocks of birds heading in my direction. I took some of it and threw it on the ground to distract them, put it back in the bag and ran for safety. It actually wasn’t very good, which surprised me after the croissant, but maybe it was just a type of pastry that I wasn’t expecting. 

 

 
I got to Sebastien Gaudard and was very happy to be back at an hour when everything was going to be fresh. I ordered some hot tea, a plain croissant, and a chocolate pastry of some kind. As I said, when I went late in the day last Friday the croissant was a bit of a disappointment, and I had wondered if I had remembered it as better than it actually was. It turned out that it was every bit as good as what I remembered from 2017, absolutely fantastic. The chocolate pastry was wonderful, but for me, it was the croissant that was the star. 

 

 

 
I love the little kettle.

 

 

 

 

 
 
As I finished up, I ordered another croissant to take with me. I started walking towards my next destination, and it wasn’t too long before I was reaching into the bag and having my way with that croissant, so perfect in its simplicity and complexity.
 
From Gaudard I walked through the Tuileries towards the Louvre, past the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, and on to Sainte-Chapelle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
The glorious windows of Sainte-Chapelle, a reminder of what is possible in the world.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The steps back down to the ground floor.

 

 
 
Click on the link to see a video of the windows.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdGfKH4UpG4
 
 
I continued my walk, going to the Tower of Saint-Jacques, and then the Hotel de Ville, having visited both the last time. 
 
 

 
 
 

 
I’m not sure if this is supposed to be the world’s finest clothing store, but I didn’t go in.
 
 
 
The spectacular Hotel de Ville.

 

 
 
Click on the link to see a video of the Hotel de Ville.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7ijBunZof0
 
 
I next went back to the Musee d’art et d’histoire du Judaisme. It’s a spectacular museum, with wonderful artifacts showing the history of Jews in Paris.

 

 

 
Gravestones from a Middle Ages Jewish Cemetery.

 
A sukkah.

 
Menorahs.

 

 
Shofars.

 
A highly decorated Ark.

 
 
My next stop was back at Starbucks, so I could finally have the pastry that I had gotten at Des Gateaux et du Pain and had been carrying around all day. After the disappointment of the apple turnover, I wasn’t expecting too much. I’m so glad that I was wrong. It was spectacular. Every morsel was a treat to all the senses. Magnificent.

 

 
 
I went back to my hotel for awhile, considering what to do next. I didn’t get to even half of the patisseries on my list, which would certainly take more than two and a half days. I had wanted to go to Boulevard Haussmann and Galeries Lafayette, and tonight was the night. It’s an interesting area, very crowded with shoppers, and highly decorated. 

 

 

 
The area is mixed with high-end and moderate shops, but there was nothing moderate about La Maison Le Gourmet, the very high-end food court, with probably a dozen or more very fancy chocolate shops and bakeries.

 
I had read about the chocolatier Jean-Paul Hevin, and when I saw his outpost, I decided to get a few samples to try. It is very, very good chocolate.

 

 

 

 

 
A collection of available spices at one of the shops.

 
 
For dinner, I went back to Les Deux Magots. My dinner two nights ago had been so wonderful, I wanted to do it all over again. It was another fabulous dinner.

 
It’s a very nice space.

 

 

 
Once again, the olives and pretzels were great.

 
It was a more traditional small salad this time, and I really enjoyed it.

 
I love rolls and butter!

 
Perfect.

 

 

 
 
My steps for the day.

 
 
 
..... much more to come.
 
post edited by Davidsanders - 2018/12/29 16:38:35
#37
annepr
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 12:17:59 (permalink)
I always love your trip reports, and this is one of your best. Thanks so much!
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leethebard
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 12:29:45 (permalink)
Really enjoying your trip photos!!
 
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ScreamingChicken
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 12:45:59 (permalink)
Davidsanders
I would have thought you would say, “less meat, more fried chicken.”

If your original outbound flight had been to any of those domestic locations, there's a chance that might've happened.
MetroplexJim
ScreamingChickenLess pastry, more meat!!

Careful for what you wish!  The most common cut of beef in Parisian cafes and bistros is "entrecote", which is French for shoe leather.  They raise their beef for flavor, not texture.  Always discuss this issue with the waiter before ordering any beef dish other than filet.

As long as that shoe leather doesn't come cooked past medium-rare I might be OK with it being a bit chewy.  I love the flavor of chuck steak and don't mind having to work a little when I'm eating one, so I'd be willing to give entrecote a try at least once.
post edited by ScreamingChicken - 2018/12/29 12:47:15
#40
nagle
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 14:05:32 (permalink)
David, I am enjoying your report immensely. As always.
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ChiTownDiner
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 14:07:06 (permalink)
Alarm bells are ringing....
 
A very good sweet cherry and raspberry torte. 

 

 
 
David - NEVER, EVER show your salad side....you'll become Davidsaladsanders!  Just like someone else we know...
#42
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 14:11:10 (permalink)
The Sunday breakfast looked exquisite!  I'd still be there...
 
WOW!
Guido’s five-mozzarella tasting plate. It was really wonderful.

 
Curious...how many languages does Guido speak?  
#43
ChiTownDiner
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 14:14:09 (permalink)
 
It’s a wonderful space.   And that's an understatement!  

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leethebard
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 14:30:04 (permalink)
ChiTownDiner
 
It’s a wonderful space.   And that's an understatement!  



Like I've said so many times in this report....wow!
#45
Davidsanders
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 15:11:26 (permalink)
ChiTownDiner
The Sunday breakfast looked exquisite!  I'd still be there...
 
WOW!
Guido’s five-mozzarella tasting plate. It was really wonderful.

 
Curious...how many languages does Guido speak?  

I asked Guido how many languages he speaks during this trip and he deflected my question by saying he doesn’t speak music. He must speak six or seven? And his accents are amazing. Listening to him speak German in Cologne, French in Paris and Italian in Milan was stunning. He’s Dutch so that’s four, and of course English.
post edited by Davidsanders - 2018/12/30 11:03:31
#46
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 15:21:20 (permalink)
ChiTownDiner
Alarm bells are ringing....
 
A very good sweet cherry and raspberry torte. 



 
 
David - NEVER, EVER show your salad side....you'll become Davidsaladsanders!  Just like someone else we know...

Wait, I’m confused. Which salad are you referring to, the cherry salad in the torte? Or the actual salad in Paris? Sometimes I try to pretend that I occasionally pretend to pretend to eat healthy. A momentary slip. Do I need to talk to the Sultan?
#47
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 15:39:32 (permalink)
That torte looks like a slice of heaven!
 
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MetroplexJim
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 16:01:42 (permalink)
ChiTownDiner
 
David - NEVER, EVER show your salad side....




What we Americans think of as "a salad" is, in Paris, salade verte.
 
Selections such as this …

… are offered among the "salad" listings on the typical French menu.
 
My favorite such "salad" also includes several varieties of pate and are usually served with a baguette, butter, pickles and pickled pearl onions.  Such are "last meal" worthy!
post edited by MetroplexJim - 2018/12/29 16:04:31
#49
leethebard
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 16:29:48 (permalink)
I like their version better!
 
#50
MetroplexJim
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 18:08:30 (permalink)
You were here …

… and didn't step inside?
 
This is what you missed:

The first time I ever entered there I knew I wasn't shopping at a Sears in Kansas!
#51
Davidsanders
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 18:38:26 (permalink)
MetroplexJim
You were here …

… and didn't step inside?
 
This is what you missed:

The first time I ever entered there I knew I wasn't shopping at a Sears in Kansas!

Too bad. Maybe next time, which might be a year from January. Although it’s doubtful I’ll be there for Christmas again.
#52
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 18:49:23 (permalink)
Davidsanders
ChiTownDiner

Curious...how many languages does Guido speak?  

I asked Guido how many languages he speaks during this trip and he deflected my question by saying he doesn’t speak music. He must speak six or seven? And his accents are amazing. Listening to him speak German in Cologne, French in Paris and Italian in Milan was stunning. He’s Durich so that’s four, and of course English.


And Guido looks like a rock star!!!
#53
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/29 22:14:42 (permalink)
I'll  bet in his world he is a rock star!
 
Buddy
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/30 08:25:35 (permalink)
Davidsanders
MetroplexJim
You were here …

… and didn't step inside?
 
This is what you missed:

The first time I ever entered there I knew I wasn't shopping at a Sears in Kansas!

Too bad. Maybe next time, which might be a year from January.  Although it’s doubtful I’ll be there for Christmas again.



 

No matter how many times I visit, I always have "Carmella moments":
 
The glorious monuments, museums, churches, and palaces aside, it is the commonplace in Paris I find to be so extraordinary.  Here are more pics of that department store.  Here's the bank across the street.  My thoroughly incidental "discovering" them were "Carmella moments".
 
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/30 10:24:08 (permalink)
Those rolls at Les Deux Magots look really good...I imagine they were slightly crisp but not chewy, with soft, light centers and great bread flavor.
 
They definitely did not come from Le Farm du Pepperidge!
post edited by ScreamingChicken - 2018/12/30 10:25:42
#56
Davidsanders
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/30 12:37:16 (permalink)
ScreamingChicken
Those rolls at Les Deux Magots look really good...I imagine they were slightly crisp but not chewy, with soft, light centers and great bread flavor.
 
They definitely did not come from Le Farm du Pepperidge!


They were great, Brad, but they were definitely on the chewy side, including on the inside, and definitely in a good way. Great bread flavor, used in large part as a delivery system for that incredible butter.
#57
Davidsanders
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/30 12:44:36 (permalink) ☄ Helpfulby nagle 2018/12/30 13:46:55
nagle
David, I am enjoying your report immensely. As always.

Thanks, John. It was a fun trip, and I love sharing it, although the reports are definitely time consuming.
 
I'm headed back to Asia for a CSO tour on January 14 (flight leaves at 12:20 am. I hope to do a report on that one as well. It will be my 9th Asian tour.
#58
ann peeples
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/30 12:52:25 (permalink)
This is the most breathtaking report I have ever had the pleasure of reading!!
#59
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Re: December 2018 CSO European “Pre-tour”, and Paris and London 2018/12/30 13:02:30 (permalink)
ann peeples
This is the most breathtaking report I have ever had the pleasure of reading!!


Thank you Ann, what a nice thing to say.
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