House of Nanking
The key to many good restaurant reviews is in the sentence, "When the time comes to order, ask for the owner, hand the menu back to him and say, 'I trust you.' The chef will prepare for you a culinary party on a plate."
This was true in the Ho-Ho (Chinese restaurant) in Bells, TN, in 1982 and it was true at Arnaud's (NO, LA) in 2006.
Ingratiate yourself, honestly and without false humility, with the staff and they will take care of you.