Helpful ReplyHot!January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour

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Davidsanders
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 19:32:13 (permalink)
Monday, January 23rd
 
 
 
This morning began with a rehearsal at the spectacular Musikverein, in the Grosser Musikvereinsaal, or Goldener Saal, the Golden Hall. The home to the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, the hall was inaugurated in 1870. It is one of the great concert halls of the world.

 

 

 

 
My colleague Michael Hovnanian carts his bass across the stage. Makes me happy I play the cello.

 
My music for the beginning of the rehearsal. Hindemith Concert Music for Strings and Brass.
 
 
 
Lunch after the rehearsal was at Nordsee on the Kärntnerstrasse, the pedestrian street in the heart of Vienna. The first record of the street is from 1257. It’s a fast food seafood shop. My fried shrimp and fried potatoes.

 
After lunch I walked to Julius Meinel. I didn’t buy anything, but it’s a great store to walk around. They have several sit and eat, plus a huge delicatessen and grocery. I liked the help yourself barrel of sauerkraut.

 
Interesting hot sauce and barbecue sauce.

 
Julius Meinl
Am Graben
http://www.meinlamgraben.at/Home
 
 
Later in the day I went for my second visit to Demel with another colleague. We shared several treats, and I had a hot chocolate mit schlag, which was wonderful.

 
I had the chocolate mousse cake again.

 
We shared the lemon tart with meringue which was great.

 
And two little minis, the one on the right is a Sacher Torte.

 
I had dinner after the concert in the hotel lobby restaurant. I had the Wienerschnitzel, and it was pretty much inedible, full of gristle. Too bad! Definitely the worst meal of the tour.
 
Much more to come.....
 
 
 
post edited by Davidsanders - 2017/02/10 19:37:35
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will_work_4_bbq
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 19:38:46 (permalink)
I agree with everyone's comments about your fantastic trip report, your amazing accomplishments, and your talent for finding glorious food and roadfood on various continents!  I am enjoying every picture and every word.  I must ask, though, what do your kitties do while you tour?
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Davidsanders
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 19:53:45 (permalink)
Tuesday, January 24th
 
 
 
This morning I walked with my colleague Mark Kraemer, bass player who joined the Orchestra half an hour after I did in 1974, up the Kärntnerstrasse to the St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the seat of the Archbishop of Vienna, which began construction in 1137. 

 

 

 
From there we walked to the Hoher Mark, Vienna’s oldest market square, to see the Ankeruhr, the large gilded clock. There are figures of 12 popular historical personalities that tell the hour. At noon there is a parade of all 12.

 

 

 
After my two visits to Demel’s in two days, I had more or less decided not to have any more pastries this trip to Vienna. However, Mark mentioned Café Central, another old pastry shop/restaurant that I had heard of, so we decided to give it a try.

 
A beautiful place.

 

 
Mark and I just kept pointing until we had picked seven pastries! Our table wasn’t nearly big enough for all the plates and they started doubling up some of the plates.
The one on the left is a raspberry cream. The one on the right is an almond cake with cream.

 
Wonderful expectations. Mark and I get ready to dig in.

 
Vanilla cream.

 
Caramel with peanuts and a chocolate shell, with a chocolate cream inside. I think this was my favorite. It was spectacular.

 

 
I believe this was hazelnut.

 
Chocolate mousse cake.

 
Apple strudel with warm vanilla cream. I’m pretty sure that my future visits to Vienna (if there are any) will have to include Café Central as well as Demel.

 
 
Café Central
Corner Herrengasse and Strauchgasse
https://www.cafecentral.wien/en/
 
 
As we walked back in a stupor to the hotel we passed St. Michael’s church. I had never been inside, and Mark told me that the Mozart Requiem was premiered here shortly after Mozart’s death.

 

 

 

 
 
Dinner after the concert was at Huth, a very good Austrian restaurant that I had never been to before. An appetizer of dumplings and sauerkraut was ordered to share for the four of us at the table. Nobody seemed to be able to figure out what the filing of the dumplings was, maybe some bacon or ham of some kind.

 
My colleague Loren had a liver dumpling soup.

 
And veal meatballs with mashed potatoes. I tried a little of it and it was excellent.

 
My third Wienerschnitzel in three days. This was a really, really good one.

 
And really good fries.

 
Huth Gastwirtschaft
Schellinggasse 5
http://www.huth-gastwirtschaft.at/en/startseite
 
More to come.....
 
post edited by Davidsanders - 2017/02/10 20:06:58
#63
Davidsanders
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 19:59:08 (permalink)
will_work_4_bbq
I agree with everyone's comments about your fantastic trip report, your amazing accomplishments, and your talent for finding glorious food and roadfood on various continents!  I am enjoying every picture and every word.  I must ask, though, what do your kitties do while you tour?


I take them with me........... No, not really!!!!!
 
I have a wonderful pet sitter, a vet tech who has been taking care of my pets for almost 18 years. She started with my  two dogs, then one dog, then a dog and a cat, and now the two cats. She's a treasure, and the last couple of times I've also had her daughter coming in to do her homework and read for an hour or so a night. Her daughter is now a college sophomore in Massachusetts, so she couldn't come for the entire time.
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Davidsanders
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 20:06:27 (permalink)
Wednesday, January 25th
 
 
 
Another charter flight to our next stop, Baden-Baden for one concert. I went to an Italian restaurant across the street from the hotel.

 
I liked this salad.

 
The pizza was okay. After Milan I’m not sure what I was expecting.

 
 
Mamma Lina
Lange Strasse 83
http://mammalina.de/en/
 
 
After lunch I walked along the pedestrian street for awhile. There were many pastry and chocolate shops to choose from. I liked the dog in this one waiting patiently for his master.

 

 
After the concert I went to the restaurant in the hotel. The hotel is a Japanese style hotel, and the restaurant is a Japanese restaurant. It was really good. Terrific gyosa.

 

 
Udon noodles with king prawns.

 
Beef tenderloin yakitori.

 
Roomer’s Hotel
Moriki Restaurant
Lange Strasse 100
http://www.roomers-badenbaden.com/en/restaurant-moriki/
 
 
Almost done.....
 
post edited by Davidsanders - 2017/02/10 20:12:02
#65
will_work_4_bbq
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 20:07:18 (permalink)
Davidsanders
I have a wonderful pet sitter, a vet tech who has been taking care of my pets for almost 18 years. She started with my  two dogs, then one dog, then a dog and a cat, and now the two cats. She's a treasure, and the last couple of times I've also had her daughter coming in to do her homework and read for an hour or so a night. Her daughter is now a college sophomore in Massachusetts, so she couldn't come for the entire time.


Perfect!  You can truly enjoy yourself!
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Davidsanders
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 20:14:54 (permalink)
Thursday, January 26th
 
 
The next day was a free day in Baden-Baden. I wanted to ride the funicular train up the mountain and asked the concierge at the hotel how to get there. She looked it up and told me the bus to take, which I did. When I got there, the train was closed until sometime in February. Oh, well, the bus ride was nice, as it went higher and higher. So I took the bus back, then walked around the pedestrian street again. I also took the bus to a shopping mall about 15 minutes away and went to the Starbucks there.
I also went to a fast food Asian restaurant there that was actually not too bad.

 
There was also a gelato place in the mall.

 
Hazelnut and pistachio.

 
For dinner I went to another Italian restaurant that was better than yesterday’s lunch, but I didn’t get around to taking any pictures.
 
One more to go.....
 
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Davidsanders
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 20:19:58 (permalink)
Friday, January 27th
 
 
Today we took a charter bus to our last stop on the tour, Frankfurt. We didn’t have a lot of time, because the bus was scheduled to arrive at about 2:30 and the concert was at 8:00. I walked around the area a bit. The nearby castle.

 
The nearby Starbucks.

 
The dog waiting in line.

 
The last concert hall of the tour.

 

 
The side boxes behind the violins (a bit blurry).

 
 
Well, that’s it! It was a long trip and a long tour, but I had a great time. I may try to do a "best of" summation.
 
 
 
#68
lleechef
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 20:48:14 (permalink)
Piece of cake.  Or strudel.  Well, you did have 4 whole measures when you could rest! 

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lleechef
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 20:54:43 (permalink)
I am very sorry this trip report came to an end.  Please do a "best of"!  I can't imagine, all the concert halls, the architecture, the food, the music.  What was your favorite composition and where?
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BuddyRoadhouse
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 21:44:02 (permalink)
Loads of beautiful locations and tempting food photos, but the ones that grabbed me were the shots of the Gyoza.

 

I love the lacy intertwine weaving them into a single entity.  I've never seen them prepared like that.  I can practically taste the crispy, caramelized umami crust.
 
Now more than ever, I want you to join us on the Kansas City Crawl so I can go fork to fork with you at some of my favorite places, and then look at the photo record afterwards.
 
Thanks for a very enjoyable report!
 
Buddy
post edited by BuddyRoadhouse - 2017/02/10 21:46:05
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ScreamingChicken
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 21:56:17 (permalink)
Well done, David!  Have you always used your free time while touring this way or is the Roadfood angle a more recent development?
 
You mentioned you're now in your 5th decade with the CSO.  Are you the longest-tenured member?
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 22:09:49 (permalink)
Thank you so much for this amazing report. Loved,loved,loved it!!!
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Davidsanders
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 23:42:48 (permalink)
ScreamingChicken
Well done, David!  Have you always used your free time while touring this way or is the Roadfood angle a more recent development?
 
You mentioned you're now in your 5th decade with the CSO.  Are you the longest-tenured member?




The Roadfood angle is definitely a more recent development. When I first joined the Orchestra I went to museums and other sights. In the late 1980s I started a rare violin book and autograph business, and I spent all of my free time on tours going to antiquarian book and autograph dealers. When I got my first iPad before a European tour in August, 2011, I started using the camera to take pictures during the tour. I had joined Roadfood.com in 2008 and saw all the incredible trip reports. I went on my my first barbecue trip in January 2012, and got more and more interested in documenting my trips. I've become obsessed with North and South Carolina barbecue, and Savannah in general.
 
I'm currently the sixth most senior member of the CSO. I think that at least one, possibly two of the more senior members will be retiring in a year or maybe two, which would make me number four. Our most senior member is our principal trombone Jay Friedman, in his 55th year. In my 43rd year, there is little chance that I will be able to match the longevity record of 54 years of a cellist who was a member when I joined. He had joined in 1955 at age 22, and retired just before he passed away at age 77 in 2009. I would have to play until I'm 79, another 12 years. I don't think I'll want to or be able to do that.
 
David
 
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Davidsanders
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 23:46:21 (permalink)
BuddyRoadhouse
Loads of beautiful locations and tempting food photos, but the ones that grabbed me were the shots of the Gyoza.

 

I love the lacy intertwine weaving them into a single entity.  I've never seen them prepared like that.  I can practically taste the crispy, caramelized umami crust.
 
Now more than ever, I want you to join us on the Kansas City Crawl so I can go fork to fork with you at some of my favorite places, and then look at the photo record afterwards.
 
Thanks for a very enjoyable report!
 
Buddy




The first time I saw gyoza prepared that way was last January in Beijing at a more upscale restaurant in our hotel. I imagine it's traditional to do it that way, but I had never seen it.
 
I'm still working on KC!
 
#75
Davidsanders
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/10 23:54:23 (permalink)
Here is the summary of my report, such that it is.
 
My favorites (no particular order):
Harrods Godiva Chocolate Café
Jen Café
The Dorchester Afternoon Tea
Wilton’s
Sebastien Gaudard
Gerard Mulot
Ristorante Papa Francesco Milan
Demel
Café Central
Restaurant Pürstner
Moriki Restaurant Baden Baden
 
Runners up:
Gail’s Bakery 
Aalborg coffee shop hot chocolate
Huth Gastwirtschaft
 
Very good:
Golden Union
Princi Pizza
Creperie Plougastel
Waffle at Tuileries Garden
Bistrot Paul Bert
Waffle at Park Hyatt Hamburg mall
Park Hyatt Hamburg Restaurant
 
Good:
Hummingbird Bakery
Borough Market croissant
Au Chien Qui Fume
Sant Ambroeus Pasticceria
Nordsee
 
Not bad:
Patisserie Valerie
Boulangerie Raphaelle
Bistrot Les 4 Saisons
Mamma Lina
 
A disappointment:
Café le Courcelles
Aalborg hotel restaurant
 
 
I can't really make a best of list about the places I went to. I enjoyed pretty much everywhere I went in London, Paris, Milan, Cremona and Vienna.
 
 
My favorites would include:
The entire day in Cremona
Harry Potter
Westminster Abbey
Louvre
Hotel de Ville
Sainte-Chapelle
Notre Dame
Sacré-Coeur
Musée de l’Orangerie
Musée d’Orsay
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme
Memorial de la Shoah
Hamburg Harbor
Milan Duomo
 
 
post edited by Davidsanders - 2017/02/10 23:57:00
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mar52
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/11 00:47:48 (permalink)
Incredible!
 
THANK YOU!
 
 
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Davidsanders
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/11 01:35:22 (permalink)
lleechef
I am very sorry this trip report came to an end.  Please do a "best of"!  I can't imagine, all the concert halls, the architecture, the food, the music.  What was your favorite composition and where?


If I had to pick, it would probably be the two encores that we did after the two programs at La Scala, the overtures to the operas Nabucco and I Vespri Siciliani. It wasn't by any means the best hall for the Orchestra, but since our music director Riccardo Muti was formerly music director at La Scala and is so incredibly popular in Milan, and since he is known as the foremost conductor of Verdi in the world today, it was pretty thrilling. 
#78
leethebard
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/11 08:53:12 (permalink)
WOW!!!
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/11 09:19:22 (permalink)
This is one of the best trip reports I have had the pleasure of reading. Thank you so much!
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lleechef
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/11 11:27:34 (permalink)
Thrilling indeed!!  Here is Maestro Muti conducting I Vespri Siciliani at La Scala.  Unfortunately the camera is not pointed to the cello section.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qb-tz1Immjs
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Root-Beer Man
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/11 12:39:15 (permalink)
Awesome report! Maybe one of these days I'll see my daughters reports, if she keeps up with her violin!
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/12 21:47:48 (permalink)
David and Buddy
 
If you enjoy the type of pot stickers in David's photo, Ramen San on Hubbard, just west of State and across the street from Firecakes Donuts does a similar take.
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BuddyRoadhouse
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/13 02:08:13 (permalink)
Sounds like a Gyoza three-way might be in our future.  I'll bring the fish sauce.
 
Buddy
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Ev1L
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/13 19:35:24 (permalink)
Excellent report and I truly envy you! Hats off to you for such a long and successful career (40 trips? wow).
 
Please keep it up!
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Re: January 2017 London and Chicago Symphony Orchestra European Tour 2017/02/13 20:52:02 (permalink)
What a wonderful report! My company has an office in Hamburg directly across from St Michaels's church, and there is a nice little bakery around the corner that I'd stop in every morning and get a franzbrotchen, a cinnamon pastry local to Hamburg (I like the ones with the streusel on top). Congratulations on your longevity with the orchestra, and thank you for sharing your tour with us!
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