Munich, Germany (Part 2)

Culinary Wanderlust
Junior Burger
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2007/10/05 15:17:56 (permalink)

Munich, Germany (Part 2)

Bavaria is a glorious place. Lederhosen, pretzels the size of small woodland creatures, and beer falling in constant streams into the massive gallon-sized steins emblazoned with a stencil the local brew house can only make one smile.

Carly and I went to Munich to visit her longtime partner and he showed us the way through the various food stations in the humble metropolis. Thankfully, she has slowly converted him into a roadfoodie. Therefore another ravenous soul has joined the roadfood movement.

Keep in mind, we were only there for a few days, so we did our best to pillage from the city.

Weisses Brauhaus. One of the many beer halls in Munich and one of the tent sponsors during Oktoberfest. Assorted Meat Platter, which if I remember correctly is called the Farmer's Feast. It features three different cuts of pork accompanied by dumpling ball and a satisfying wheat beer. Honestly, the beer tasted so much better in Germany, than from taps in the US.

I include the next item as a honor to Carly. This is her homemade omelet made in an authentic Munich kitchen. I call it Frittata de Schmitt, as in her last name.

Next, after spending the morning being ultra-touristy by watching the glockenspiel in Marienplatz, the town center, do its daily dance and visiting numerous churches, including the dual peppershaker known as Fraukirche, we needed something extra Bavarian.

We went to the Hofbrauhaus, the beer hall of all beer halls. This massive structure, filled with sweaty tourists from around Europe is a worthwhile experience. Even though the food received less than stellar results, people go there for their beer and live entertainment.

The Hofbrauhaus also has an attachment to infamy. On the second floor, one of the first National Socialist (Nazi) meetings took place. Below, I am celebrating the irony of a man named Adam Cohen having a beer right below such a distinctive event.

After a beer or two, Carly and I meandered through the main part of Munich and had to hit up the Victuals Market. It is a terrific farmer's market and butcher shop row mixed into one. After walking through and sampling numerous tents' treats, we went to the alley of butchers and had a distinctive sandwich. Leberkasse, a meat loaf amalgam sandwich, oddly translates to liver cheese in English, is one of the best cold cut combos ever to enter my lips. The meat, moist and warm, mixed with the Kaiser roll encasing its porky/bovine essence made me involuntarily smile as I savored every last ounce of this on the go comfort food. We tried several on this strip and each butcher has their own blessed recipe for success.

As you may have noticed, Carly is an excellent food model. Personally, I think she would make a terrific career out of it.

Next, we moved on to Odeonplatz and walked through numerous pleasant gardens and fancy retail streets. As we went through the site of Hitler's failed Beer Hall Putsch and a monument to the Prussian military past, we entered the oldest continuously serving cafe in Munich called Cafe Tambosi.

This oblong double-decker cafe had people spilling out of it, waiting to get seats. As we went to our table, we walked past a torte sliced in such a way that it resembled a very narrow pizza slice. Yet, the amounts of cherries per square centimeter enticed us enough to order and devour this cream cheese based champion of treats. This was one of Carly's favorite items during our entire trip.

One of the more surprising customs in Munich involved the amount of freedom dogs had within restaurants. The dogs would come right inside and sit by their owner and not make a sound. There were no noises uttering from any canine that I noticed during our stay in Munich and Berlin. It makes you wonder if we are way too paranoid in the US about having animals inside eateries.

In the evening, we went to a restaurant named Cohen's near the University area. Carly and I assumed that the cuisine would be wholly traditionally Jewish in nature. We were wrong. Even though it was kosher, the amount of Middle Eastern influence infused with Jewish Deli food produced this intriguing hybrid. Surprisingly, it was open on Friday night and there was an elderly man playing an indescribable instrument. Talk about atmosphere. I indulged in a chicken liver meal with couscous and it was worth all of the cholesterol spikes during the next few days. Pan fried and delightfully rich, it made my taste buds celebrate with delight.

The next day, filled with museums, walking, and a somber journey to The Dachau Memorial, we ended up at the English Garden, in particular the Chinese Pagoda section. The English Garden is Munich's largest park and has some socioeconomic sections carved out with it. For examples, families tend to congregate in one area, Frisbee throwing, free love advocates in another, and across the stream, the nudists have free reign. Yet, nothing quite kills an appetite like unappealing people letting it all hang out. Despite this setback, we needed to accomplish our goals of food and beer garden delights.

Now, this is a pretzel. It is large, doughy, salty, and immensely satisfying, worth its weight in carbohydrates.

Also at the garden, we imbibed in a moss of beer. Not recommended for the yeast intolerant.

Anyone think Carly and I should become the European correspondents of Roadfood?

We had made it through Germany without sampling Eisbein. It is a traditional dish that scares many people, myself included. Eisbein is pork knuckle. Sounds incredibly appealing? Well, it was downright delicious. Crispy on the outside and succulent under the skin and quite possibly one of the best meals in Munich.

This is the entire trip, at least the food highlights. I am headed for Berlin, Vienna, Paris, and London in the upcoming months for work. I hope to add much more regularly. Awaiting all of your appreciated and earnest comments.



9 Replies Related Threads

    Junior Burger
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    RE: Munich, Germany (Part 2) 2007/10/05 16:49:23 (permalink)
    Great pics and trip report. Makes me want to hit the road to Germany today. Was that Liptauer cheese with the prezel? Thanks for posting!
    Double Cheeseburger
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    RE: Munich, Germany (Part 2) 2007/10/05 17:26:23 (permalink)
    Leberkase is traditionally served topped with a fried egg.
    Because too much is never enough.
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    RE: Munich, Germany (Part 2) 2007/10/06 23:25:30 (permalink)
    You guys are too cute, and having way too much fun! I'd definitely give you my vote for Roadfood European correspondents.

    Re. the kosher restaurant - I imagine Cohen is likely from Israel, hence the blending of "traditional" (I assume you mean Ashkenazi/Eastern European/NY Deli)-type food with Middle Eastern (which is traditional for lots of Jews from Iraq, North Africa, what have you). What's more surprising to me is that there's a sufficient market for kosher food in Bavaria.

    Thanks for the tour!
    Double Chili Cheeseburger
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    RE: Munich, Germany (Part 2) 2007/10/10 09:31:23 (permalink)

    Very nice report! Looks like you had a great time and agreeable weather. Did you happen to make it to the Deutsches Museum?

    MMMMM, I could taste the bier von hier !!! Das schmekt aber gut, meine leibe!

    Viel Spass und eine gute Reise, wunsche Euch.


    Double Chili Cheeseburger
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    RE: Munich, Germany (Part 2) 2007/10/10 09:51:32 (permalink)
    BOy those photos made me hungery.In regards to your remark about dogs in restaurants,the Canyon Cafe has Doggie Dining on the Patio
    like once a month.They do it as a fund raiser for the San Antonio Animal Shelter.Now if they would do a day for cat owners like me,well that be great.
    Hope to get over there to Bavaria to do some family research,glad you had a good time.
    ann peeples
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    RE: Munich, Germany (Part 2) 2007/10/10 10:32:57 (permalink)
    Wonderful, wonderful report and pics.Thoroughly enjoyed it!!
    Double Cheeseburger
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    RE: Munich, Germany (Part 2) 2007/10/10 11:37:07 (permalink)
    I wish I was where you are!
    Extreme Glow
    Double Cheeseburger
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    RE: Munich, Germany (Part 2) 2007/10/10 17:31:14 (permalink)
    Excellent report.

    Re: dogs. I spent 3 months in UK and saw dogs in attendance in all of the pubs. No problems; in fact I never heard a dog bark anywhere while I was there.
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    RE: Munich, Germany (Part 2) 2007/10/11 23:13:23 (permalink)
    Nice. But what's up with all the Lacoste? Are you trying to antagonizing the locals with your French duds?
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