Hot!My Truck Build ( re build )

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Blakkmoon
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2015/12/02 01:16:30 (permalink)

My Truck Build ( re build )

Aug 2015 - Picked up and old food truck. ( cheap )
She's a beast.  Needs a good face lift.  But got good bones.
Its a mid 70's Boyertown body built on a Ford f 350 chassis.
Simple 300 6 cyl engine ( my favorite ) and c 6 tranny.  ( bulletproof )
 
 
 
Thought it was going to be a simple update of some stuff, and I would be ready to run.
 
Man was I WRONG.
 
Between the existing problems, the government red tape BS, and lack of ANYONE who has a clue ( including me )   wow
 
Just wow
post edited by Blakkmoon - 2016/09/12 01:22:45
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    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/02 01:19:54 (permalink)
    So it's now December 2015
    I have learned tons.
    And TOTALLY gutted the truck.
     

     
    Must have pulled out 600 or 700 pounds of wood and framing.
     
    But the good news is that I can start fresh
     

     
    Next I will try to pull up whats left of this rotted metal floor and fix some holes
    #2
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/02 09:37:38 (permalink)
    So its been around 4 months since this fiasco started
    I'm either too stubborn or too stupid to just walk away
    Actually, I just like to win, and this is a HUGE challenge
    I have a blog going with ALL the details    http://blakkmoon.com
     
    But here, I will just share the highlights
     
    After all, that's the important stuff now.
     
     
    post edited by Blakkmoon - 2016/09/12 20:30:15
    #3
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/02 10:15:02 (permalink)
    I live up north in Winnipeg Canada
    You may have heard of us
    http ://www .huffingtonpost .ca /2015/09/18/small-patch-of-mars-named-after-another-famous-cold-place-winnipeg_n_8160228.html
     
    Of all the stuff I have read here, I think OUR rules must be among the STUPIDEST I have seen.
     
    The easy route is to just go to one of the builders, hand them between 75 and 150 grand, and wait for your truck or trailer to be finished.  ( I know, I checked )
    Just for the simplest of updates to MY truck they estimated between 20 and 40. And that was BEFORE I found out that it ALL had to go.
     
    In OUR city ( as I have learned ) it's actually a TOTAL waste of time to buy a used food truck/trailer and hope that you will be able to use it.
    At least I did not pay too much for mine...  probably less than I would have, had I just bought an empty shell.
     
    But I see used trucks for sale for 50 grand all the time, listed as "CURRENTLY OPERATING"   "READY TO GO"   "RECENTLY RENOVATED"    "ALL UP TO CURRENT CODE"
     
    In WINNIPEG  ....     NONE of that matters.
    #4
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/02 10:22:27 (permalink)
    In WINNIPEG  ....     NONE of that matters.
     
    When ever a truck changes hands, it has to go through the EXACT same process as a fresh build.
    Even if the truck JUST passed all the inspections the weeks before.
    Even if NOTHING has changed.
    The city will NOT apply ANY of the information from the previous owner. ( yes I checked )
     
    So say you just dropped 50 k on a "ready to go" 2nd hand truck, fully equipped with everything.....
    And for fun, lets say it was just all approved the week before.
     
    YOU must first hire a mechanical engineer who must submit technical drawings and put his $tamp on it.
    This is easily $1000 - $2000 alone.
    Then you must have a licensed gas fitter inspect and sign off on all the gas stuff. more $$$
    Then you must have a licensed electrician inspect and sign off on all the electrical stuff. more $$$
    You need this just to be able to SUBMIT your application to the city ( Office of the Fire Commissioner )
    Along with every single manual for every piece of equipment on the truck.
    And of course and application fee.
     
    THEN you get to wait for your inspection for gas, inspection for electrical, AND THEN  once that gets approved, you can apply for your health inspection.
     
    And none of this includes your $3600 annual fee to operate downtown.
     
    #5
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/02 19:12:45 (permalink)
    And YES assuming the inspection was done just a week or two earlier, AND the seller has copies of ALL of the information, the OFC will probably accept that stuff, along with your application fees of course.
     
    But if you buy a truck that is a couple of years old, then you must do all of the stuff they want.
    You truly have no clue whats behind those walls until you look.
    MY walls we ALL stainless steel.
    To ME they looked good.
    The equipment was all good brand name stuff.
    Layers of wood.  NOT fireproof insulation. Hidden wires that were capped off yet still live.

     
    Can you imagine if I had spent 40 or 50 k??
     
    I didn't know what to look for BEFORE I bought it.   I'm sure many others will be the same.
    #6
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/02 19:39:50 (permalink)
    Yeah sure, maybe I was just toopid.  Or at the very least - uninformed.
    But I WENT to the sheet metal guys who have been doing carts and trucks for over 20 years.
    I got THEM to tell ME what needed to be done.
    Got quotes and made budgets.
    Got together with THEIR subcontractors - gas - electrical.
    Hell THESE people had even worked on my truck with the previous owners over the years.
     
    They were all happy to take my money and tell me how everything was going to be done up to code bla bla bla.
    In the end it probably would have been 10 - 15 k
     
    And it would have had to either ALL been tossed because it would not have passed.
    Or they would have gotten stuff all apart and started saying this was bad and that was bad and just soaked me for more and more money.
     
    It scares me to think about what will happen to others.
     
    Anyhoo ...
    So what this all means is that an existing food truck has almost no value as a food truck when sold.  in my city.
    Either pay the big bucks to the builders, or start a build yourself from scratch.
    Or like in my case, buy it cheap enough that its not a TOTAL waste.
     
    There is still value in the parts that I would have had to source anyway.
    Like the serving window, and sinks, and shelves and cooler and water tanks.
    And hopefully I can sell off the appliances that I don't use.
     
    #7
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/02 20:04:18 (permalink)
    I am frustrated with the length of time this is taking, and seemingly getting nowhere.
    But without this endless BS - I would not have gained so much much knowledge.
     
    For example, just 2 days ago this happened.....
    I had been emailing the OFC trying to get a few answers.
    Nobody could be bothered to get back to me.
    So I just go to their office.
     
    Got to talk to someone about my questions.
    Which was good because I learned that if I go completely electric. No propane, then I don't need to do half the steps they wanted if I were to go with propane.
    Wait - what?
     
    So if I skip the propane, I do NOT need to hire an engineer, or have drawings done up, or get the engineers stamp of approval.....
    This alone would probably save me a few thousand dollars.
     
    WHY THE F_ _ K did someone not mention this before??????
    I have been back and fourth with these people on the phone and emails and they knew that I was thinking of going straight electric.  And yet nobody could be bothered to tell me this little tidbit????
     
    Plus then of course I don't need a gas fitter either. Just an electrician.
     
    I dunno.... these are the rules.
     
    Besides, there are no real guidelines in our city for building a truck.
    And most of the NFPA96 rules revolve around gas equipment.
     
    #8
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/02 20:04:53 (permalink)
    One of these is what I hope to try and do for the outside
     

     
    #9
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/02 20:20:49 (permalink)
    I posted here a little  while back looking for opinions on propane vs electric.
    Never got anything for replies.
    I know that if I was going to keep the deep fryer, or needed a char broiler, then yeah, propane would be great.
     
    But I am only going to be doing grilled cheese and variations there of.
    No frying of meats.
    Easily done on a grill.
    Should be pretty much no grease laden vapors.
    So no fire suppression needed.
    And quite possibly, I can get away without the need for a commercial hood and fan.
    I am waiting on a ruling from the engineer.
    This will save me THOUSANDS of dollars $$$.
     
    Plus I will save around 1500 pounds by not having the propane tanks and the appliances.
     
    And I was just reading in one of the posts here, that propane loses a huge amount of its btu ouput as it gets colder.
    So when it's only plus 1 outside, the propane won't even be able to keep my grill warm.
     
    Going electric would allow me to work into November ish.
    Heck if I can pull off 3 or 4 events of some kind that late in the year, that would be great.
     
    So if anyone can give me some insight into why I should spend many thousands of extra $$$ to use propane, I would love to hear it.
     
     
    #10
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/10 16:25:06 (permalink)
    So it seems that I am just talking to myself here....  nothing new I guess.
    It's been a week since an update.
     
    Got into the floor.
    It's a treated plywood base, with galvanized sheet over top.
    A smart person would yank it all and put down fresh stuff.  
    But even more now with the ABSOLUTE confirmation that this thing holds absolutely NO value as a food truck if I ever sell it, then I must do this thing on the cheap as much as possible.
     
    So the plywood is still in good shape, no rot.
    The metal  .... well not the greatest.
    I spent some time with the wire wheel and cleaned it up.
    Sealed all the seams and corners with silicone.
    filled all along the base walls with spray foam.
    Went over the whole floor with some spray on undercoating.  ( had a bunch layin around )
     
    http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/coatings/rubberized-undercoating/
     

     
     
     
    It seals well and stays pretty flexible.
    While the metal is not perfect, at least it holds its structure.
     
    I'm going to sheet over the floor with plywood, and use screws and construction adhesive...
    Plus go up the walls 2 feet with cement board. ( will finish the rest of the walls later)
     
    I plan to do a 3 x 3 inch corner bead out of 22 gauge aluminum ( I have )
    It will be a 90 degree bend between the floor and the wall. ( with silicone )
     
    I think without it, the floor and wall will move independently too much.
     
    and then do a coating of this stuff
     
    http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/restore/restore-10x-advanced-resurfacer
     

     
    I have used it before, and it takes one hell of a beating.
    This stuff is durable, flexible, and is patchable.
    Also I can build up the corners and "cove" it up a min 4 inches - as per our health department regs.
     
    Then give it a light sanding  and top it with some type of epoxy.
     
    So far I have played with this stuff....  and not too impressed.
    http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/epoxyshield/garage-concrete-floor-coatings/garage-floor-coating
     

     
    Next I am going to try this and see.
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Premium-1-gal-902-Slate-Gray-1-Part-Epoxy-Concrete-and-Garage-Floor-Paint-90201/100113293
     

     
    Our health department wants, smooth easily cleanable, durable floors, coved up min 4 inches with sealed/welded seams.
     
    They actually don't like the diamond plate stuff, although they will pass it.
    Besides....  in our city,the diamond plate floor would run me about 4 - 5 grand.
    Or about $3000 if I do it myself.
     
    I did some experimenting and found epoxy coatings adhere well to concrete type surfaces but not so great to the bare wood, so, so far, my plan looks good.
     
    I have done a bunch of mock ups, and hope to get approval from my health department before I finish it.
     
    Worst case scenario, they say no, and I have to put a sheet of vinyl over it all.  But I want to try this.
    I saw my buddies truck after 1 season of light use and all his seams need to be repaired already.
    And it was professionally done at a pretty high cost.
    post edited by Blakkmoon - 2016/11/01 20:43:53
    #11
    mar52
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/10 21:44:30 (permalink)
    Blakkmoon, you're read.  Some of us just don't have anything to say on the topic.
     
    If anyone you've written a great learning report of what it takes to redo a truck for the food business.
     
     
    #12
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/16 20:41:22 (permalink)
    Can't believe it's nearly Christmas already.
    Needless to say I am STILL waiting to hear anything from the engineer.
    STILL
     
    Anyway, was able to get some more experimenting done on the floor.
    And I think I have finally got the right combination of things.
    This is my mock up of the floor.

    A couple pieces of 2x4 and 2x6 screwed together.
    I am going to take my 22 gauge aluminum, and cut it into 6 or 8 inch strips, and whatever length needed.
     
    Then instead of putting in a sharp 90 degree bend, I just give it a nice smooth ROLL.
    And viola, a perfect cove.
     
    I also think that I will do the wall in 2 sections.
    Lower section, about 1 ft high (even with the wheel wells)
    Sheet it with plywood but only secure it to the side beams with silicone instead of screws.
    I already know that things move. Houses shift, panels move, concrete moves, everything.
    So my goal here is to make sure that the FLOOR and the lower wall panel are joined together by this aluminum sheet and screwed to each section.

    This SHOULD allow the floor and the lower wall section to act more like one piece when they move a bit.
    Hopefully this will mean less chance of the flooring coating coming off.
    The top part of the wall section can be screwed to the structural side beams of the truck.
    I think it will only be the aluminum panel anyway, so it can just overlap the bottom part a few inches and kinda float on top of it. Maybe some silicone to keep it in place.

     
     
    I gave it a light sanding first.
    Then a couple of 1 inch drywall screws secure the side piece and floor piece together.
    And coat with ....
     

     
     
     
    No need to try to build up the corner for the cove.
    The screws get hidden perfectly.


    A few coats, and I am ready for epoxy.
    This stuff feels like concrete when its cured.
    But has some give / flexibility, so it should be good in a moving vehicle.
     
    Then top coat with this stuff
    Picked up a can of this stuff and really like it.

     
     
    It takes a couple of coats, but it fills all the rough stuff.
    It leaves the surface smooth, almost feels like a vinyl floor.
    But I will be able to patch it in minutes if it cracks at all.
    AND at most it might cost me $150 all in.
     
    I almost choked when my buddy told me how much he paid to have his ( now split and cracking ) floor done.  $1900 !!
    But it was done by a  professional.
    Granted it gets all done in an afternoon.  And yeah, it was ( supposedly ) commercial vinyl.
    But come on. $1900 ???
     
    At MOST his floor INCLUDING the cove up 4 inches is 5 ft by 12 ft.  So 60 sq ft.
    So even if you say MAYBE $400 for the vinyl.  Which makes it over $6 a sq ft. (gasp)
    And MAYBE $100 for other materials.
    That leaves what.... $900 .....for MAYBE 4 hours labour????
    So OVER $200 an hour to lay vinyl floor ???
    AND it has to be repaired after ONE season???
    Thanks, I'll try my way ...
     
    Oh yeah, and another buddy of mine has some left over 5/8 tongue n groove sub floor from his house reno.
    He has enough to do the truck, and I have 14 cases of ceramic tile left over from when I did my bathroom.
    Straight trade.  So the sub floor is costing me zero.....   I have had the tile for years.  SCORE
    post edited by Blakkmoon - 2015/12/16 21:15:43
    #13
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/16 21:37:04 (permalink)
    So I went and talked to one of the concession truck builders recently.
    Since no one will bother to give me an answer on a hood and fan....

    I figure I better price one out just in case.
    When I tell him my situation... he says ... well if you are going all electric, and no propane anything, and no grease laden vapors, then you shouldn't need a hood and fan.
    I told him I wanted a price anyway, just in case SOME government inspector figures I MUST have one.
     
    $5000 for the hood, $1500 for the fan, and another $1300 for the install.  ouch
     
    So the next day I send him an email, asking why EXACTLY he thinks I should not need the hood.
    NOW he doesn't want to talk.
    He says to read my NFPA96.... it's all there.
    He says having a conversation is one thing, but this is totally different.
    This would be ADVISING, and he could only do that as a consult, and he would need my plans.
    OK, I send him my layout pics, and my plans and what equipment I am using.
    And ask say, OK here it is. How much is my "consultation" going to cost.
    That was a week ago.
    No reply.
    I guess I can just add him to the list of a - holes who don't reply or give me answers.
    #14
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/16 23:36:46 (permalink)
    So I managed to get a hold of the "proposed" "draft" copy of "guideline" that is being developed for food trucks in my city.
    While these are not yet enforceable rules, at least it gives me an idea on a few things that I have been questioning.
    Mainly, the appliances and their use.
     
    Although the health department says I can pretty much use anything I want.
    And we are not "required" to use commercial appliances according to current rules.
    I must first get inspected by the Office of the Fire Commissioner.
    And THAT is who made up this "guideline".
     
    The one thing I noticed in this "guideline",is that it says that all appliances and equipment must be "certified" for their intended use.
    So while yes everything is "certified" to be used ins Canada ( CSA or ULC )
    I was wanting to use some residential grills.
    And I noticed that ALL appliances that are not "commercial" have it stamped on them...
    "for household use only" or "intended for household use"
     
    OK yeah sure, I'm on a tight budget, AND yeah, I'm a cheap ass.
     
    But really, where I live, this truck will be used a few hours a day, maybe a little more on weekends, IF I get an event, and only about 5 months out of the year.
     
    We don't run things like you guys down in the USA in the warmer climates.
    Some of you guys even do breakfasts.
    But if not, many of you at least do lunch and supper, and weekends.
    Many of you do good sized fairs where your equipment is going for 10 or 14 hours a day.
     
    So yes, if you run that many hours, most or all year long, then yes, you want equipment that is built to last.
    But for me, that will not be using the equipment even a quarter of that time, why the heck should I have to spend $3000 or $4000 on a grill??
     
    Luckily I have the Coke fridge to use.

    And then I found these griddles.
     

     
    They are just what I need / want.
    They are ULC listed. Light duty commercial. Not stamped as "for household use"
    Cheap to buy, and cheap and easy to replace.
    Yeah if it dies in a year, then its a buck and half to replace.
    Not a few thousand.
     
    So I think this is the way to go.
    #15
    Magus
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/17 20:38:37 (permalink)
    Hey Black....you are not talking to yourself... I'm reading. Wanted to share something with you.

    The stuff is G-d awful expensive but this is what I will be coating my chassis with when the weather gets warmer...it works! Paint it right over the rust...if you get it on your skin...it WILL take about 3-4 weeks to come off
    #16
    Magus
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/17 20:42:58 (permalink)
    I did try to go to your blog...I could not stay long...it refreshed so much that I think I might have had a mild seizure...it's probably my crApple product.
    #17
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/17 21:20:05 (permalink)
    Hey Magus
    Hmmm ....  I turned off the slider at the top of the page.
    Check and see if that helps.
    Other than that, there should be nothing refreshing.
    From here on in, I am just going to post to the blog, then copy and paste in here as well.
     
    What was the gawd awful stuff you were going to put on your chassis???
    The Restore??
    #18
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/17 21:23:14 (permalink)

     
    The main shot is my perfectly coved mock up floor.
     
    3 or 4 coats of the Restore product.
    Then with 3 or 4 coats of epoxy paint.
    Not smooth like glass, but it doesn't have to be.
    Up close it's still pretty smooth.
     

     
    The only thing I didn't like was the WAY the aluminum FEELS underneath.
    It has a kind of hollow feeling to it.
    I think because I ONLY screwed it to the boards.
    When it goes in the truck, I think I will silicone it first, then screw it down.
    That should give it a lot of strength AND a good solid feel.
    post edited by Blakkmoon - 2015/12/17 21:26:29
    #19
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/18 20:05:19 (permalink)
    I stopped in to see my engineer guy today....
     
    He finally talked to HIS guy, the one that deals with kitchens and ventilation.  The actual mechanical engineer.
    As far as he is concerned, with what I am doing, he says that I will not be producing grease laden vapors. So I should NOT need a commercial hood and fan.
    And he us willing to stand behind that decision and sign off on it if it is questioned by any inspector.  WOOHOO!!
    I get get to save THOUSANDS of $$  !!    Happy Dance !!
    #20
    hpx
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/18 21:51:43 (permalink)
    Can you give more details on the griddles? 
    #21
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/19 13:57:06 (permalink)
    hpx
    Can you give more details on the griddles? 


    Just FYI I DID put a link on the griddle pic to Amazon.
    Here is a link to the manufacturer
    http : // www . cadco-ltd . com/griddles.html
     
    It is the same as the Broil King unit.  Which is cheaper on Amazon.
    But I live in Canada and MUST have CSA or ULC rated stuff.
    The Cadco unit is the Canadian version.
    Which usually means bend over say ahhhhhh.   2 or 3 times the price unless I make a trip down there.
     
    http : // www . amazon . com /Broil-King-PCG-10-Professional-Portable/dp/B000BKXE02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450551265&sr=8-1&keywords=broil+king+griddle
    #22
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/19 14:03:58 (permalink)
    OH Loddy Loddy I can't take it !!

     
    Can you believe 2 - count em TWO  ---  dare I say --- positive - things happened in a row.
    Maybe we will just them non - set backs.... Positive is just to strong a word.
     
    But yeah, first I get the green light from my engineer.
    Hell just getting an answer was a - woo hoo, but a green light  !!  MAN o MAN
     
    So I know I don't need to spend - what was that number.... about $8000 for a hood and fan set up ...  plus another $2000 - $4000 for fire suppression.
     
    But I still want a hood / fan.
    A decent CFM one.
    I still want to suck out smoke, fumes, smells.
    And I have this concern about things listed " for household use only " being not allowed.
     
    So my usual 3 am searching around for stuff.
    I find a hood that I like. It has 700 CFM. It's CSA approved. ( it's sold here so it has to be )
    And I found the manuals at Home Depot and it says NOTHING in them about house hold use.
     
    http : // www . homedepot . com /p/Presenza-30-in-Under-Cabinet-Range-Hood-in-Stainless-Steel-QR060/205209899

    I had to read them over and over.
    Even downloaded them and ran a search inside the document for all of those words, and NOTHING !!  WOO HOO!!
     
    If it "happens" to say it on the box, I can toss it, I only have to have the manual.
    If it "happens" to say it ON the unit, it SHOULD be printed somewhere on the motor or other hidden spot, so it won't be seen.
     
    I THINK I can now officially start to move in a FORWARD direction.
     
    Of course we just got hit with a foot and half of snow, and -20 cold.
    But I got a heater in the truck, and I don't give a fu....   :)
    #23
    leila10
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/21 10:23:39 (permalink)
    My husband is an electrician. Let me know if you have any questions. I don't know if ur done with that area or not but sure sounds like anyone building a food truck in Canada could use one in in their back pocket! All the government red tape sounds unbelievable.
    #24
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/21 17:28:53 (permalink)
    leila10
    My husband is an electrician. Let me know if you have any questions. I don't know if ur done with that area or not but sure sounds like anyone building a food truck in Canada could use one in in their back pocket! All the government red tape sounds unbelievable.



    Thank you for the offer to help.  I'm sure your hubby doesn't mind being pimped out 
    If I have any questions, I can let you know.
     
    I am not quite there yet. Electrical will be after the floor.
    Still waiting on my buddy to bring me the sub floor we made the deal on.
     
    Tomorrow, I meet with the health department to get (hopefully) get a thumbs up on my choice of floor covering.
    Fingers crossed.
     
    And yes, we MUST use a licensed electrician to finish the work, do the connections, AND put his stamp on the paperwork.
     
    Next thing you know, they are going require a licensed plumber to run 6 feet of pex and a couple of drains.
    #25
    leila10
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/21 23:10:26 (permalink)
    I just got approved two days ago from the health department and soooo happy. That sucks that you guys have to go through that just to get approved. Is it a yearly renewal for just the health department or do you have to go through all the other areas of approval on a yearly basis?
    #26
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/22 00:20:58 (permalink)
    Up here
    The process is hire an engineer and have him do up blueprints, and put his stamp on it
    ( at least if you are using propane )
    Submit application fees and plans to the Office of the Fire Commissioner
    Hope they OK the plans
    Then hire a licensed gas fitter to do all the gas lines to code and put his stamp on it (again if you use propane)
    And if you are using propane you must have your fire suppression installed by licensed installers
    Then hire a licensed electrician to do the electrical and put his stamp on it
    Then COMPLETELY build and finish your truck
    THEN go for your inspection from BOTH the gas AND electrical inspectors from the Office of the Fire Commissioner
    ( charged at $90 per hour )
    Sometime in here we must take a food handlers course
    Then assuming you pass everything
    You can then apply for your health inspection
     
    Health inspections are done annually
     
    The other stuff only gets done once when you build your truck
    or if you buy a used truck ....  
    any time a truck changes hands the new owners must go through the exact same process, as if they are building from scratch.... even if the truck was fully certified the week before . ..  no joke
     
    Supposed to get re inspected any time you change any of the major equipment as well but nobody ever does that since they would not otherwise be re inspected
     
    Oh yeah, after all the inspections are done, THEN you can pay your $3600 fee to operate in the downtown area for our 5 moths of warm weather
    #27
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/22 01:11:16 (permalink)
    BTW 
    at least here is just rules...
    Play by the rules, and you can do your thing
     
    check out this article about another Canadian city
     
    http : // www . vice. com/en_ca/read/montreals-food-truck-plan-is-a-symbolic-fu ck-you-to-poor-people-and-immigrants
    (take out the spaces)
    people are being denied an operators license because the city does not deem them worthy
     
     
    post edited by Blakkmoon - 2015/12/22 19:55:02
    #28
    leila10
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/22 18:05:01 (permalink)
    I couldn't find the link you were talking about. I hate to say it but I think I might have tried my luck on just going ahead and start working without a liscense and see what fine I get if I got caught. However, I don't know if there is a huge fine or criminal charges. That would definitely change my mind!!
    #29
    Blakkmoon
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    Re: My Truck Build ( re build ) 2015/12/22 19:58:36 (permalink)
    Good news again !
    The health department approved my flooring choice.
     
    I'm so happy I could just poop !
    #30
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