The 2012 James Beard Foundation Awards America’s Classics award honorees are:
The Fry Bread House (4140 N. 7
No trip to Phoenix is complete without a visit to the Fry Bread House, a trim paneled room on a modest, sun-baked residential street, founded in 1992. The sign outside says “Native American Food.” At the counter inside, you can order
exhilarating, complex red and green chile stews that are a primal blast of the Southwest.
Owner Cecelia Miller comes from the Sonoran desert Tohono O’odham Nation, and her all-native staff is drawn from assorted Arizona tribes. Their blissfully delicious specialty is hand-stretched fry bread—downy bronze cushions the size of
dinner plates, in both savory and sweet versions.
On the savory side: Indian tacos, layered with refried beans and beefy red chili, green chili, or chorizo, garnished with crisp chopped iceberg, shredded cheese, and tart red salsa. For dessert: fry bread baptized with butter and local honey or
The faithful clientele is wonderfully democratic, from Tohono O’odham friends of the house to hipsters and businessmen and the ever-present lucky traveler.